Death of the roof rack...

Day 4 As we left Farina I noticed we were the last car to do so. This didn't surprise me as we both took our time in the morning soaking in the morning sun rays and scenery stretching out around us. We'd still to do the washing of our dishes too. Once complete we set out, back onto the unsealed road north to Marree. Once again we were filling the thirsty car with yet more fuel. We also stocked up on ice into our toolbox to try keep what little food we had cool. The town was a small place with a railway line running through the middle with only trains sat out on unused track. After our quick stop we hit the road again, this time heading west out along the Oodnadatta track. The track was again unsealed road and Rob was behind the wheel. Throwing the car down the track at speeds enough to have me fairly worried I tried making subtle comments like "keep this up and you'll pop a tyre" and "what happens if an animal steps out?". Unsurprisingly Rob ignored me claiming he knew better and that it wouldn't happen and pushed onwards. This really highlighted a large difference in our driving styles to me, Rob pushing the car harder and harder refusing to slow quite enough for the corners to feel safe where as I'd take more speed off and just accelerate harder. Upon mentioning this we had a debate about it which Rob claimed his driving style was perfect and latched the road conditions but was more bumpy where as my driving style wasn't as well suited for the road but a lot smoother. After a while we both came to realise that the passengers seat seems to be offering an exceptionally different perspective of what was really happening with Rob accusing me if breaking in the soft sand where all I'd done was lift off the accelerator. We both twigged that what you felt was happening from the passengers seat wasn't a true representation of what was actually being done by the driver. By this time we were nearing Lake Eyre basin, with our planned driver change and leg stretch stop to be Lake Eyre south. On route however, Rob managed to find a few more emu's to try run over. Thankfully missing them and the countless lizards, birds and other animals that seemed to be out on the road we arrived at the vast and, by appearance, full Lake Eyre south. Whether the lake was actually full or partly full I can only guess at. The heat of the day had been creating a mirage along the road as we'd made tracks to the stop. So the lake could just have appeared full, with the shimmers we could see being nothing but a mirage. The stories from the aboriginal people as to how the lake was formed were written in boards in a shaded shed, the boards also had information about the area the full basin covered and how far a field the water was collected from. I jumped in the driver seat as we set off again, this time heading to William Creek for lunch. Hopeful that the drive would be straightforward with no complications I was sorely disappointed and Rob exceptionally pleased. It seems that we had over loaded the roof rack and Rob's heavy footed approach to the off-road tracks had shaken it loose but it was with me behind the wheel it finally gave up. The first bump I hit, at a considerably slower speed the Rob would have, broke the roof rack from its fittings. I could hear a knocking but at this point had no idea what it was. Rob jumped out and looked round the car and jumped up in the side to rock the car in case it was suspension - finding nothing wrong we carried on. I'd like to note that while on the side of the car to rock it, Rob would have been looking straight at the roof rack fitting! I continued comment how wrong the noise was and Rob hung out the window to have another look while we were slowly moving. This time he noticed the roof rack was nearly off with the fittings half hanging off, so I put the car into 4WD low for the first time and took it off the road into some sand. After deciding that we must have over loaded it and bantering about how I'd broken the roof rack. I still stand by that Rob did all the manager I just put the final straw on which broke it, while Rob claimed it was simply my aggressive driving which caused the damage. After unloading everything except the tyre we threw the roof rack back into place and set about trying to tighten the bolts with pen knives. Once complete we were off again with all the other bits stuffed into the car. It wasn't long before a knocking returned and gradually for worse. This time the roof rack was entirely off. Pulling over to the side of the.road we lifted the whole thing off and removed the tyre. Our dilemma was where to out the second spare? Thankfully we had both seen a car the previous day with a second spare lashed onto the first on the rear door - decision made. On went the tyre with rope and bungie cords. It worked surprisingly well, the second spare managing to hold my entire weight - there are even photos to prove it. The roof rack got disassembled and shoved into the car with every thing else. Third time lucky. The remainder of the drive was uneventful with no animals to be seen anywhere, not even lizards - maybe my driving really is that bad! Driving on the unsealed road is the most enjoyable driving I've had in a long time with the changing terrain, dips and crest all over the place - it was fantastic. Eventually, after all the excitement of the roof rack, we made Williams Creek for lunch and another driver change. Lunch was hot dogs using an idea stolen from our boat dive in Port Philip the week before our driving trip started. We had warmed water in the morning and thrown it with some frankfurters into a thermos flask. Unfortunately during one of our roof rack repairs is found the lid wasn't quite properly on so we had lost some water, all the same, it worked providing us with a quick, easy lunch. Rob also wanted cheese with his, however on digging it out found it was some what water logged and soggy from the melted ice - regardless he still used it. our stop for the night and route planned to get there was not unattainable so we had a quick think and re-planned yet again. We both wanted to stop in Coober Pedy as the draw of an underground town was too much to resist, but were unlikely to get to our planned stop in the Painted Desert. We set on to Coober Pedy debating the plan of action or throwing in another day before Uluru. Eventually we decided to head up the Stuart highway to our planned stop and then back track into the desert to see the Arckaringa hills the following day. Arriving in Coober Pedy in late afternoon we headed to the information centre to find out what was where and what was free after getting petrol. The petrol was meant to be Rob's shout but he had confidently misplaced his wallet. Everything was on me until we found his money. With the day getting on we picked s couple of things that interested us, The Big Winch lookout over the town, the underground church and w mining walk (the only one that had a cost). After a wonder round the winch look out we set about trying to find the church, it was well hidden but we did eventually find it. The temperature difference on entering the church was refreshing with the main service hall straight front of us and a children's cave off to the right. After a quick explore of the area we went to move on, as we were leaving we were greeted by a guy who was working in the underground motel next door. He gave us some historic information about how it was formed and that it all used to be a mine, church and motel. He pointed our some different cutting marks in the side wall rating the lower was from the original mine and the higher circular cuts were added later to allow the mine to be converted to its current state. The motel is still undergoing enlargement after its opening date in 2001. At this point we realised time was getting on so we skipped the mine walk and headed our onto the road again. Some time later we arrived at Cadney Homestead, our home for the night. We paid the $15 for our spot for the night and started putting up tents. We had both decided we were going to make use of the showers and have food in the bar tonight. Just before setting up I drained the remaining water from the last two sausages we hadn't eaten st lunch. While stood at the front if the car I noticed two small, colourful birds dancing around the bullbars. It turned out they were having a banquet courtesy of Rob and I. They were eating the bugs off the mesh at the front of the car - free clean for us! Rob also managed to find most of his cards. He had wrapped them up in the swag bag but, while trying to put the swag away in the morning had managed to snap a corner off his debt card. Once showered and our food ordered we noticed a pool table, entertainment for the evening before bed...