Thursday, 10 November 2011

Day 15

We'd managed by now to get into a routine. We'd both get up around 8am, Doug's alarms having gone off for an hour, mine for a mere 30 minutes. Doug likes to believe he gets up, has a shower, packs his tent and then kicks me awake, and while on our past 15 days of travelling together this has happened a few times, it is by no means the norm. Today like most of the others I'm up first, the zip of my swag bag stiring Doug into action. The shower block has been the first port of call whenever available, with long hot nights trapped in an airless canvas coffin producing copious amounts of sweat (sorry ladies, perspiraton).  Today was no different, and now my brain needed tea to function 100%. This was achieved using the camp kitchen and just required milk which the nearest petrol station was able to fulfill. Tea in hand I was able to slowly draw myself to alertness, with Doug taking this mornings drive. To make matters better, yesterday I'd managed to find Hamish and Andy on the radio, and today learnt they were also on on a Saturday morning - bliss. With gentle banter, a cup of tea and the long road underway, in local time it was still only 8am.
The plan for today was to drive hard for Harvey Bay, so that tomorrow we would be on Fraser Island. This meant lots of driving, and we optimistically estimated an arrival time about 5 pm, just in time to catch the travel agents. By 4.30 we knew this was unlikely, the road had been but a blur, with no significant changes or variations. Creeks and rivers continued to seem fuller, flood damage was still evident and roadworks were underway everywhere to repair the damage. When we realised we weren't going to make it, I started looking online, a whole heap of research and very little to show for it, we just had to hope the tour places would still be open. It was nearly 6 when we arrived in Harvey Bay. I'd been here twice before, once on my way up the coast for a nights stay, and also once on my way to Fraser Island. My memory once again served its purpose, directing us neatly down to the foreshore where sure enough there were lots of tour shops - all closed. We did spot a small one at a backpackers but hoped there were more so carried on looking. Eventually giving up, we returned to the tour desk at Nomads. I'd stayed here before, but never experienced the tour desk. It was busy, a good sign and still open and seemed to cater mainly for young females unable to speak English based on the clients in there. When it was our turn, we asked for information. We'd ideally be looking at a 2 day 1 night tag a long tour, where we'd be in a vehicle with a bunch of others, would take our turn driving, and would have a guide to show us round. No tag-A-long tour was this short. The option of renting one ourselves seemed expensive as well, 267 a day without all the extra fees. We were stumped. A few options had been presented, 3 companies offering tours for our required length of time, but 350 each, and we still wouldn't be camping on the beach, something I wanted to do. We also wouldn't get to drive,  and we had both got the 4wd drive bug and were ready to test our skills in new terrain. With the options in hand, we returned to the car to discuss. Still not giving up hope on self drive, I Googled, and came up straight away with 2 places, the second of which seemed cheaper, just 294 a day for both of us with all fees included. I called and despite being 6.30pm local time, they answered. They were able to accommodate us even at such short notice if we had our own equipment to take. Of course we did, so bam we were set. We had the option of being at the office at 6 or 8...no surprises we chose 8. With this set, we needed somewhere to sleep for the night, and again with google helping out we found a caravan park literally on the beach just down the road. We pulled up, missing the office but only a short walk away. I had to ring the bell a few times but eventually was able to book us in for the night, for the first time receiving a key to the toilet block. We found our pitch, and set up camp . Then quickly headed off to buy supplies for the 2 days we'd be on the island. After driving all round Harvey Bay, I was sure I'd seen a large supermarket on the outskirts - which turned out to be closed like all the others, clearly Saturday is a quiet trading day for them all. Almost giving up we found a small convenience store still open and we were lucky enough to get dinner for the evening, and all the extra bits we'd need for the next 2 days. Returning to the campsite, we'd even been able to scout out the place where we would collect the car in the morning. Basic packing sorted, we headed for the camp kitchen, cans of whisky and coke in one hand, food in the other. As we prepared to use the outdoor kitchen, the gent sat at the table piped up, chatting friendly and we were set for a long evening. As I prepared dinner and cooked our steaks, the conversation bounced around and the guy started becoming interesting. Before long dinner was cooked and we sat down next to him to continue talking. Soon, the name dropping started, state premier this, governor general that, Kevin rudd, Julia gillard even names we recognised as being high and important were coming out and this guy knew them all or dealt with them. His biggest story of the night came when he let slip he had just been awarded the Order of Australia medal. Only the highest honour a civilian can receive. For 18 years this guy had been raising money for charity to complete a cathedral in tasmania. He'd raised 46 million, and since then another 5 million more. This wasnt a religious nut either, he wasn't doing it for god or some other mythical reason, just that he believe the community needed it finished, and he'd been asked, and just got on with it. His business sense was revered around the country. He was called in as a troubleshooter for lots of companies and people when things weren't working out. He was a fascinating story teller, and even if he did repeat himself a few times he was endlessly entertaining. Feeling a bond, he then went and got the medal to show us, knowing it was unlikely we would ever see one again. This man and his wife were triathletes, they lived a good life and and could easily be staying in top hotels, yet here they were. Enjoying a campsite, and they were camping, no motor home for them, ready to head to Europe for 6 months. It was an extraordinary event, and yet we had to drag ourselves away. Even then, it took 4 attempts of saying bye before there was a sufficient lull in the conversation for us to leave. Fascinating man, but boy can he yabber!
Off to sleep again, another earlyish night and another early morning to come


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