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Australian adventure is over

There's only a few more adventures to write up, but I thought I'd better post to say both Doug and myself are now in Canada and the Australian adventure reached an end. It was a great experience, and we both really enjoyed it.


The photos are currently being sorted out and captions added, and the GPS tracks we recorded on our way round will be put up and shared in place of the where am i section. Please check back in a few weeks for the final touches to be done - we're both pretty busy here in Canada!

Day 20

The habit of the last 2 weeks was tough to break, so at 8.30 I was up and set for the day - making the most of the free breakfast provided in the hostel. I know this wont last, and so have to make the most of it while it does. Doug was still out of it, but there was plenty of things to do as we were hoping to have the car sold by the end of the day. As I started going through it, I realised we'd been carting a LOT of equipment around the country. All of it would need to be thrown, or taken to the hostel and sorted out. All the random bags of "forgotten" items which had been lining the car were no longer so appropriate, and needed to be packed into normal bags. To sort through all the stuff, I'd moved the car about 6 parking spots so that there was plenty of space around it and so it was no longer on a sideways slops, then got to it - taking everything out the car and making piles - Stuff to throw away, stuff to sell with the car, and stuff to take with us. Eventually, I got a text from Doug asking where I was and what had happened to the car. I'd checked after moving the car that it was clearly visible from the old parking spot and from the stairwell entry to the car park. Doug had stopped in the stairwell entry, able to see a tiny corner of the previous parking spot - enough to see the car was no longer there. Blaming his height difference for not being able to see where the car had been moved to, he had been worrying that the car had been stolen! No such luck, as we'd have got a nice payout on the insurance. Instead, we slaved away clearing through the crap. For the final stages of the journey, we'd noticed some foul smells occasionally emanating from the back of the car, and were not sure what could be causing it. When I came to clean out the thermos used on day 4 for hot dogs I discovered a soggy orange mess. Doug and I had both been convinced he had removed the remaining sausages and rinsed the thermos - but apparently not. The festering remains of 2 hot dog sausages which had soaked up all the remaining water had a stench bad enough to turn both our stomachs - and after a few minutes of retching and gasping for fresh air we were able to continue cleaning. Needless to say, the thermos was instantly thrown into the rubbish pile.

Eventually the car was marginally cleaner, remnants of red dust (a key selling point for the car) still everywhere. Just in time, as the first viewers called to say they were outside. I walked up to the entrance, and after walking right past them, we got on the phone again and met our potential buyers - a German couple wanting to travel round the country to Melbourne, an exact opposite of our travels. I brought them down to the car and gave them the spiel. Walking them round the car, many memories came flooding back. They were impressed, and happy when looking under the hood that it was so clean. With them happy, we started to work out the details for the sale. It turns out that to sell it, a "blue slip" would be required. This is the equivalent to a roadworthy, or MOT from what we've been led to believe, but strangely no-one seems to be able to tell us exactly what it entails. After a bit of calling round, I find a garage recommended by Travellers AutoBarn who say they will be able to do the blue slip today. The car is loaded with all the saleable items, but we still have the rubbish and our belongings to move up to the hostel. Leaving the potential buyers with the car, an opportunity for them to poke and prod and discover whatever they needed to but where too polite to do while we were there, Doug and I start the seemingly endless trips backwards and forwards to the hostel. My bags seemed to have quadrupled in weight, and they were heavy enough before. By the time all the stuff we're taking with us is moved, I'm knackered. I'm hot and sweaty, and dog tired. My muscles ache, and we still have a load of rubbish to bring up. I've already checked with the hostel and they have agreed to us dumping it with their stuff. Doug has managed to get all of our rubbish into a massive plastic bag, and together we lug it up to the hostel. When they see the size they are less than impressed with putting it in their bins, and eventually we reach a compromise - $15 for every 3 standard bin liners. At this stage, our potential buyers have been hanging around for nearly an hour - and we're fed up and tired. We manage to cram (crushing using our bodies where needed) the entire lot into 3 bags, and just about tie them up. If they are picked up wrong they will split, but the hostel are happy to accept them. Grabbing a cold drink, we make our way back to the car and set off to the garage. Its about a 20minute drive, and Doug sits in the back to let the guests see more of the car in action. The downside to this, is that Doug is supposed to be directing me and many of the directions come after we've passed the junction the direction was for. Nearly an hour of travelling and we arrive. There is no parking nearby, but Doug jumps out to see where they want things to go. There is a bit of a struggle, as he appears to be talking to someone different to who I spoke to on the phone, and they aren't able to look at it until 3pm, about 1 hour away. He also needs paperwork, after Doug goes back and forth between the car and the shop a number of times, we lock the car up and all of us join him to resolve this once and for all. The German couple now decide that they want further mechanical checks done on the car, and I let them know they will be paying for this as well. Confident that the car will pass any checks it needs to - especially as it has just been through a service 1500km ago. Because the original garage can't do this kind of check until Monday at the earliest (5 days away), they suggest we try some of the other garages. With the most useless directions in the world, we set out in the hope that somewhere nearby is quiet and can do it today or tomorrow. After driving round the back streets of Bronte what seems like a hundred times, frequently getting caught with no right turns and late directions being passed from the backseat navigator, we eventually find another garage. No luck, there is no way they can do it. They also try to direct us somewhere else but we end up going round in circles, eventually ending up back at the first garage. Armed with my phone and Google maps loaded, this time I get them to point out on the map where the recommended garages are. We set off again, and happen to pass another garage. It looks quiet, so we park and go chat. Success at last, they are quiet and can start the work today. They are happy to do the blue slip and the other checks, and our German friends haggle the price as they will be paying. We're a bit taken back when they take no contact details for us at all, only taking the German couples phone number as they are the client. I do make sure however that he is fully aware the car cannot be collected by them, and they agree to call me when they get word. With everything sorted, we start walking towards Bondi Junction, the closest train station. The German couple peel off to go to a supermarket and Doug and I walk back to Kings Cross, only a 20 minute walk further on. Its time to relax for a bit, so I head to the internet cafe across the road to sort out some things, like booking a place to stay when I arrive in Canada and the like.

While I was in Melbourne, I had become attached to a website called Scoopon. This amazing invention seems to have been created to help me spend money, but has been the source of so many of our Australian adventures. A company creates a deal, which only goes live once a specific number of people have signed up. For businesses its a great way of advertising and expanding your customer base, and for people like me its a great way of booking fun and exciting things to do (like learning to scuba dive, or swimming with dolphins) without having to think or pay the full amount. In preparation for Sydney, I'd kept an eye on the Sydney deals as well and had bought a voucher entitling us to a 3 course meal for 2 with a bottle of wine in a funky Thai restaurant. I ordered 2 of the vouchers, so that we could entertain Doug's cousin who lived in Sydney. Unfortunately, Thai food was no good for her boyfriend, as he is allergic to nuts. We had dinner arranged with them for Friday night (tomorrow), so used one of the vouchers for ourselves. We walked into the city, and spent a while searching for the restaurant. It was well hidden, but fantastically decorated - incredibly quirky and seemed to be well suited to busy family meals, business dinners, and more intimate dates. Doug didn't receive my offer to buy him a rose from the salesman too well, and luckily the salesman didn't ask if we wanted to buy one as I think he would have been very embarrassed by it too! The food was excellent, Doug marveling at the size of the King Prawn's even though he wouldn't try them himself. Feeling adventurous I'd got the waitress to choose some dishes for me, and King Prawns is what I ended up with. After dinner, we decided on a walk - and I was able to show Doug around Darling Harbour. I knew the guided walking tour we were doing tomorrow morning wouldn't bring us here and felt safe that I wouldn't be spoiling their information. After seeing Darling Harbour, Doug wanted to see Sydney Harbour, so we took a staggered walk through the streets of Sydney to see it. We must have arrived at just the right time, with the moon shining over the opera house, and Jupiter clearly visible right above that. Within 10 minutes, the moon had been concealed by cloud cover, but not before we were able to snap some great pictures. We meandered our way back to the hostel, branching out and cutting across a park, instead of following the routes I knew. We made it unscathed, and joined some of the others in the hostel on the rooftop for a few drinks before they closed it up. It had been another long day, and I was shattered again. Getting up early sure has a negative effect on staying up late!

Just before I went to sleep, I got a text message. It was from the German couple, who had finally decided they didn't want to buy the car, and had cancelled all the work at the garage. I was furious. The whole day had been wasted getting them happy to buy the car, and they hadn't even the courtesy to let us know when they spoke to the garage. It was not a happy ending to the day.

Day 19 - Arrival in Sydney

We started even earlier than normal this morning, Doug was up and about by 7.30 and begrudgingly I got up too. Thankfully, the early hour meant that the crazy woman was nowhere to be seen - possibly this is why Doug was up and about so early. No breakfast, we just packed the tents after showering and scarpered out of there, having filled Doug in on the escapades of last night we joked for a while about the crazy lady. Doug had ingeniously 'locked' his tent using string and a penknife to ensure she couldn't get at him during the night. We knew we were within a days drive of Sydney, and that tonight we would be in beds again - bliss. Despite much experience between us of camping we were both very glad for it to be over, perhaps we're getting too old for it? I remember the days of camping 12 nights in a row at festivals with no hesitation or worry, and being perfectly refreshed from it. Now I was getting up and stretching out sore and stiff muscles every morning.

We hit main roads all day today, and I spent much of the journey communicating about the car. Last night I'd accepted an offer, and had advised the potential new owner that as soon as the money had arrived by paypal I would remove the advert from Gumtree, but until then I would actively try to sell it. In the morning, he had responded that he would need my help to pay the shipping agent, as he didn't have a credit card on his oil rig.... hmmm suspicious. However, I responded to say that as long as I was paid upfront I would have no problems doing this for him. The next email had both of our alarm bells ringing.

"Paypal said they will not release the fund until you email them the western union details for verification,and also to enable my pick up agent to come for pick up and inspection."

I have never heard of Paypal doing this before, and Paypal had not sent me any notification emails. Or had they? I checked my spam box - which Google happily sorts out for me.

Subject: Western Union Details Needed For Accreditation Of Your Account
From: service@paypal.com.au (onlinereviews@consultant.com)
Message:

Dear rob.kenefeck@gmail.com,

Hi my name is Mary and its my pleasure to assist you.

The buyer's account has been debited and your account has been scheduled to be credited.
You will receive a confirmation from PayPal after sending out the amount tagged 'PICK UP FEE.
You are 100% save and protected by PayPal,the total sum of $5,050AUD is scheduled and ready to be credited to your account.
This is also to notify you to go ahead with the transfer of $950AUD at post office and email us the details from western union.This is done to protect both buyers and sellers.
The whole fund has been debited from the buyer's account but was placed on hold and will be credited to your account as soon as you transfer the excess fund meant for the agent.
Get this done so that we can credit your account immediately.

Now this is stinking more and more of Paypal fraud. Especially when Google highlights for me the address the email has come from is not where it says it is. Thanks Google!

I reply to the anxious buyer, who has contacted me again. I warn him that I am waiting for Paypal to confirm authenticity, he replies:

i am getting worried here as my account has been debited and i have not heard anything from you after sending the payment.you can email paypal to confirm this as i emailed them and i was made to know that the money was placed on hold and your account will only be credited after transferring the money via western union and send the details to them for verification.i was also made to belief that it's done that way to protect both buyers and sellers.i'm sorry for any inconvenience this might have caused you.thanks always for your understanding.

At least it seems to be a real person typing these emails - which is handy. However, I am not convinced. especially as the official notification from Paypal is telling me their customer service team will not understand the payment number as it uses a different system and that to confirm everything I should reply to the email.... that I already know is fake!

We eventually stop for lunch, and I call Paypal. They are able to 100% confirm they don't provide this sort of service and I ask if it would be beneficial to forward the emails onto the fraud team for them to investigate. They agree this is a good idea and we're all done. The emails are forwarded, and immediately Paypal return telling me its a fake. I inform the buyer of my findings, and have heard nothing further from him.

With that buyer out the way, I move to the next - this time someone in Malaysia who will be shipping the car. Alert for a similar scam, I advise her when I agree to the sale that I will not be making any payments to shipping agents or spending any money of my own to do anything for her. She accepts this and understands, and then proceeds to use nearly the exact same scam! It comes from the same dodgy address, asks me to do the same sort of things and of course is complete rubbish. I give up on a overseas bidder - they offer the full amount for the car and would save of rego issues, but as we are now well versed in their scams it just isn't worth my time to let them get so far. I am almost tempted to send them a faked Western Union request, and get them to pay a fee for it, but once again - its not worth my time or effort and we get back to enjoying the drive. We've had a couple of calls and texts from people actually in Sydney who want to look at the car, so we will hold out for them, and arrange viewings for tomorrow afternoon.

As we reach Newcastle, I tell Doug to drive into the city and give us a chance to see it instead of just driving past. We still have plenty of time to drive the final 200km to Sydney, even if it is already 3.30pm. After parking up, we have a couple of options. I loved Newcastle when I was here before, and walked round it many times so suggest a few different routes. Picking one, we head along the inner harbour wall. I'm able to regale (read: bore) Doug with random facts and anecdotes from my time here and eventually we decide to stop from some refreshments at one of the harbourside pubs. With the sun starting to dip to the horizon, we force ourselves to move on, despite the allure of the barmaid asking if we want another round.

I take the wheel, and immediately ignore all signs and directions as I drive us along a cliff edge route out the city, avoiding the traffic surely heading for the big city and also giving us some great views of the coast line. The sunset promises to be breathtaking as we make our way toward Sydney, but much of it is blocked out by the big imposing rock cuttings the highway takes us through, its breathtaking to look at, knowing how much rock must have been blasted out to make way for this road. Certainly a very impressive entry to Sydney. Arriving in the suddenly confusing and narrow streets which still make up the main road in, we decide to ignore all signs again and head for the harbour bridge. It means paying a toll, but will at least give us the touristy joy of going over an iconic bridge. Somehow, Melbourne's Westgate Bridge just doesn't conjure up the same feelings.

We have decided to stay in the Kings Cross area of Sydney, despite being the infamous red light district, its a vibrant and busy place for backpackers and I'm able to recommend a really good hostel that I'd stayed at before. We drive in, only making 1 wrong turn from my memory which is easily corrected. Unfortunately the backpackers we wanted, The Jolly Swagman has no spaces (nor any parking spots nearby!) but they recommend their sister hotel just up the road. We decided on a parking spot first, and trawl the area, eventually squeezing into a multi-story which by our reckoning should be 2cm to small for us to fit in, but we still manage it anyway. Car parked securely we head over to the hostel - they have space. Just for 2 nights for the 2 of us and its the last spaces, so we take it - not considering at the time we actually have arrived a day earlier than scheduled and so need 3 nights before Doug leaves.  Once we've checked in and made our beds, we head down to the city centre - to a cinema. We've been deprived of technology for so long, and are too tired to go out and party or lose money in the hostel poker tournament - but can just about manage a walk into the city and some big comfy chairs with a good film. We arrive well after the film should have started, and have a few problems with buying tickets but make it in all the same and the trailers haven't even finished yet. The popcorn stand has closed, but I get some jelly snakes for dinner choosing them because we're so disappointed that there haven't been any snakes on the journey!

After the film, we return to the hostel, stopping in a lively Irish bar for a nightcap. Its full of revellers and great to watch all the interacting people - but definitely feeling old I call it a night and Doug follows. Either this travelling has messed up my party vibes or I'm getting too old. Its only 1am, but sleep comes very quickly.

Day 18

Waking up this morning was tough, yesterday had been a long and tiring day. Doug had been up a while before me this morning, watching the other campers leave. Before long, we were on the road and I was thank full to be back in civilisation as it meant McDonald's couldn't be far away and armed with a teabag I was able to get my morning brain juice fix.
The plan for today was to head down, past Brisbane (no point in stopping, both times I'd been before I had been significantly underwhelmed by it and we didn't have time) and along the Gold Coast. Doug had the helm, and we were making good time along the motorways.
Following the Gold Coast highway brought us in to Surfers Paradise, and being 11.00 it was a good time to stop and stretch for a while. We managed to find some free parking near the beach, and wandered along the waterline. The scenery was great, and the cool water splashing over our feet certainly felt refreshing as we meandered down towards the centre. It was so nice to be walking on the beach, we carried on down past the centre of Surfers Paradise. As we walked along, ankle deep in water, we spotted that there were small pools of deeper water between us and the beach, At times, the waves came crashing in from the ocean and a small wave came crashing out from the shore, meeting in the middle high point where we were walking. This continued, and eventually there were more than just pools of deeper water next to us, there was a full on channel and we were stuck on a finger of high ground between 2 seas. Looking ahead, the finger of land went further and further out from the beach, and the water got deeper and deeper between us and the beach. I decided that having my phone and wallet in my boardies pocket may not be the best place, and removed it. Just in time, as a large wave hit and soaked me up to the groin. Doug took heed and also removed his phone and wallet - but having been stood further away he hadn't been splashed nearly so bad.
We followed a small spur heading in the direction of the beach, hoping it would take us all the way ashore. When it didn't - I gave up and just waded the final few meters. The water wasn't as deep as it looked, but still came above the knee. Coming out of the water, we climbed the beach and walked back towards town on the shore footpath. Much drier. We had a couple of things to do in town - I needed to get cash out, still inconvenienced by a broken card and Doug wanted to get some new boardies as his were too small for him. He blames my "tumble dry everything" approach to washing clothes, but I think it is more likely that he has put on a little bit of weight while out here.....
Relying on my memory again, despite Doug's reservations I navigated us to the NAB branch. While Doug waited in the shade, I chatted to the cute girl behind the desk. Getting the cash was no problem, but she wanted to help speed up getting a card so helped me work out a suitable branch in Sydney and ordered a new card to be delivered there. This would save a heap of time when I arrived in Sydney. Unable to linger any longer, but flashing my most charming smile as I left we headed off. Walking along the road, we spotted an Irish pub, and Doug jokingly suggested we stop for a pint. I considered, and 5 minutes later we were sat in their beer garden, Guinness in hand. Good thing I was still working on VIC/NSW time, as for me it was 12.40pm and a perfectly acceptable time to be drinking. For everyone else around us, it was 11.40am and perhaps not so acceptable. We still had to find boardies for Doug, not the most challenging task given this was Surfers Paradise, and I also thought it would be a good idea to put up an advert about the car as we would be arriving in Sydney soon and it would be good to get it sold ASAP. I remembered a small Internet cafe from the last time I was here and we were able to put the advert on gumtree, not expecting to hear anything back too soon.
Heading into the main shopping street, I left Doug to shop while i went to use the public toilets. Now - I wouldn't normally talk about toilet visits but this one was so out there I feel I have to. The public toilets on Surfers Paradise main strip were fully automated. I'm standing outside, and there is a button to press to open the door. I press the button and nothing happens. The lights definitely show it as vacant, rather than occupied, so I try again. I give up on single button presses after a few attempts and start mashing it - eventually the door swooshes open. I step inside, and the instructions on the door state that you can lock the door with a button push, but that it will automatically open after 10 minutes for 'safety reasons' - I don't anticipate being in here that long so I'm good with that. I stand and press the lock button - nothing happens. Having now experienced the outer button dramas - i mash it a few hundred times, all the while standing like a lemon in an open toilet in the middle of the high street. I give up, and turn to the toilet, as I do this the door closes. Thankfully, as I didn't much fancy being arrested for indecent exposure! Just as I think everything is going to be ok, a voice pipes up - obviously recorded. Its the voice of Spock - Leonod Nemoy. I've never before had to be explained how to use a public toilet, but that's exactly what Spock does. Soon as he is finished, some incidental lift/hold music is then piped out. Its the most bizarre experience in the world. I finish up, and spot there is no flush, instead - Spock pipes up and says the toilet will flush when the sink is used or the door opens. Its almost as if I'm being watched, but he is right. Soon as I wash my hands, the toilet flushes. Thankfully the door opens first time, its just closing that it struggles with.
Toilet incident over, I head back to find Doug. In typical man style he has walked into the first shop, picked up the first pair of boardies, and found the right size. Job done! We head off, exploring the centre a little more and then head for the road again. Despite the fact that Doug has been driving all morning, we decided he needs to drive the next small section. Within 20 minutes, we'll be crossing the border to NSW. Doug has so far managed to drive us across every border, VIC - SA was delayed because we stopped 50m short, SA - NT he had just taken over the driving for the day, NT - QLD he was just finishing a driving stint. It's only fair he gets the whole collection possible under his belt, so he drives us down past the airport, which marks the border better than the tiny sign they have up welcoming us to NSW.
The rest of the afternoons driving is uneventful, and after last night debacle we decided we need to stop earlier and find a proper camp site tonight. When 6pm rolls round, we follow the next Campsite sign, not trusting our map to show them correctly. As we follow the road the campsite is marked on, we pull into the first place we find and find a good spot after paying. Doug walks off to look at the facilities and I'm answering emails about the car, which surprisingly has had a number of responses already. Getting out the car to look at the rego on the front, i hear someone call hello, but looking around cant see anyone. There are a bunch more talking but I ignore it as it cant possibly be directed at me. Doug comes back and we start to set up camp for the night. As we are starting to get everything out the car, someone pops around the back door and starts talking at us. This woman, probably about 38, is drunk as a skunk and babbling incoherently. She keeps apologising, and we're a bit bemused. She offers us beer, but we have things to do and decline. As we get on with pitching the tent she just stands there and watches us - the awkward silence is palpable, broken only when she mumbles something to her self then apologises. We finish pitching everything, getting a little worried about this psycho - she has already looked at the sleeping arrangements and offered us her bed for the night as it would be more comfortable then the floor, then when we turn her down she giggles and starts muttering to her self about 3 in the bed and the little one saying something. we get back into the car, we need to go buy some food for dinner now the bedding is sorted (hopefully it will still be there when we get back!), and she comes up to the drivers window. After trying to dissuade us from leaving, arguing that we don't need food she has plenty of beers (a strong argument normally), she then wants to come along for the ride. The car is packed out, and there are no spare seats but she insists she can sit in he middle. There's no seat belt there I tell her, thinking I've managed to get out of this one. Her reply worries us, but shows she at least is honest about what she wants. She tells us she doesn't need a seat belt, " All I need is that and that" with each 'that' she points at our groins. Oh dear. Laughing it off, we tell her no - and drive off. We're a little disturbed and Doug is almost tempted to move to a different campsite. But we're set up now and we've paid. It will be fine, she's drunk enough she's probably on her way to pass out. We follow googles directions to get to a shop, its a lovely drive down through a forested road, passing caravan park after caravan park. We did have to pick the wrong one ey.
When we arrive at the shop, it looks closed. Its 7.03 and the sign says it closes at 7pm. As we sit there trying to work out what to do, another car comes screaming up, and ewithout even shutting off the ignition, the driver rushes inside. It must still be open. Taking the opportunity, I send doug in ahead to check it out, and he waves for me to follow. We're able to grab chicken, rice and sauce and think that it will make a good dinner for a change. They really are locking up and they chase us out the store, we made it in the nick of time.
The drive back to the campsite is a little strained as we're not sure what to expect from the evening. But the views around are good enough to take our minds of it, and we enjoy the sunset through the trees. Arriving back at the campsite, the tent is still there and the crazy woman is nowhere to be seen. Phew. We manage showers and on returning to the car, she pops up again. NOOOOO.
We decide that ignoring her is best, half the time she is talking to herself anyway and we head for the kitchen with our food. Hoping to have escaped her, as there is a code for the kitchen and there is no way she will be able to remember that herself in her state, im sure she must be on drugs or something, there is no way alcohol alone could make her like this. As I start cutting the chicken, Doug returns to the car to get some canned vegtables we have sitting around. The door must have been left open, and just like a predator seeking its prey she circles the kitchen then finds the door and enters. She sits in the corner, giggleing, cackling, and talking to her self. The chicken we bought looks very funny, almost brown. There is no dodgy smell to it, and so I cook it up anyway. Once its cooked, i taste a bit and spit it out instatly - its no good. With no other meat to join it, we have a nother sloppy meal - rice, tinned peas, tinned sweetcorn, and chicken tonight sauce.... yum yum. Slopping it onto a plate, the crazy woman still blabbering, we turn on the tv to drown her out. Halfway through dinner she comes to join us, throwing a chair around the room and making a nuisance of herself. Doug is getting wound up by it, massivley so, especially when she starts stroking his arm. From what she's saying she is very attracted to him and wants him to know that. She is told in no uncertain terms, very bluntly, she needs to leave as we are not interested. Despite being repeatedly told this, she doesnt leave, but does manage to just sit there. Eventually Doug has had enough and with dinner over and washed up, he retreats to his tent. I get a text message a short while later to say the car is locked and so is his tent so that the crazy woman cant get him. I stay and watch TV for a while, finishing off my beers and replying to emails about the car. Unable to get rid of her, I just ignore the crazy woman and watch tv. When I'm done, I turn off the tv and tell her im turning the lights off. There is no reply, so I flick the fuse switch, killing all electricity to the room exactly as we'd found it. I go to bed, hoping the crazy lady will find the door, which I've also closed to keep bugs out. About 20 minutes later, she comes up to where we are sleeping and starts yabbering. In not the politest terms, i tell her to go away - to which she replies she has lost her key and her top and needs help. Im feeling guilty now for turning off the lights on her, and so I get up reluctantly to turn them back on for her. She definitely has her top on, so I have no idea how she has lost that. We walk down to the kitchen, and she still hasnt changed her tactics. Turning the lights on, she opens her hand and drops her key on the floor. She spots it, picks it up and is happy to leave. What a waste of my time. I make sure she hasn't lost anything else and close up the kitchen again. She offers her bed again for the night and I tell her where to shove it. Im off to bed, ready for what tomorrow brings!

Doug drives off road to a secluded lunch spot.

Day 17

Waking up again to the sound of waves, the sun on my face, and the soft sand underneath me was something special. If only every day could be like this. The only downside to everything was the black blanket covering my swag bag, formed entirely of large black flies. They were everywhere and every time I moved, about a 3rd of them would buzz up in the air, fly around and settle again in a slightly different position. Getting out of the swag, they once again found my skin - landing and starting what would be a very familiar feeling for the day of nibbling. They settled, tasted, then bit down. Quite what they enjoyed so much about biting us I couldn't tell, but we must have tasted good. A surge of effort, to pack up and keep moving to keep the flies off meant we were packed and ready ages before we'd be able to start driving on the beach. We headed down to the waterline, to just look and appreciate the view. As I had driven all of the previous day (the 3 hours or so we actually spent driving!) Doug would be taking his turn behind the wheel. When 8am (local time) finally hit, we set off. We were heading up north over the beach to see the Pinnacles - sand shaped and coloured by rain and wind which looked like exquisite rock formations. Doug finally experienced the difference with sand driving, and how the hard packed wet sand was easy and the drifts of soft sand could tip and skew the car massively. Spotting the Pinnacles, we then had to navigate from the water line all the way to the top of the beach, across soft sand. Parked in front of them, we wandered up and marvelled at the look. Finishing here, we had a decision to make. We could travel 35km further up the beach and experience Indian heads and Champagne Pools, before driving 35km back down the beach and cutting inland to get back to the ferry. Or we could head 30km South and be better positioned for the ferry run. We decided North was pushing it a little bit too much, we needed some relaxing time (we've had precious little of this all the way around), so we'd head South.

First stop would be Eli Creek, so we set off south, back towards where we'd camped. Doug started to get a bit more used to the handling and how sand effected everything and the car stopped leaning so dramatically as we went over soft sand on 2 wheels. Eli Creek flashed past, apparently we weren't stopping here. Next on the agenda was Lake Wabby - which meant we had to cut in from the beach and head through the inland tracks. Doug would finally get a chance to see what the terrain was like. As we approached the turning from the beach, we came level and swung round hard, slowly approaching the junction in case someone was coming down. Almost making it, we got bogged. More speed required. We backed up after clearing sand from behind the wheels and hit it again, and then again, and again. Different gears, different 4wd drive modes. Eventually, a tour bus came down the track as we were bogged again, unable to reverse. I was just starting to let some air out the tyres. Out of the bus hopped the driver, and then 3 or 4 lads eager to show off for the girls and push a car. Giving up on the tyres as I was hidden from driver view - I joined at the front as we pushed the car all the way back to hard sand. Once the bus was out the way, we tried again. First gear, and Doug finally understood what I had been talking about with a screaming engine, the revs were so high it whined like a little girl but cleared the soft sand at the start of the track and pulled up the hill. Getting bogged again, I hopped out, cleared the tyres once more and Doug wellied it through the next spot. I stayed out the car to see we were through, and spotted another bus heading down to join the road. Doug slowly managed to get into a passing bay, seemingly slow  - turns out we were in 4WD Low, in 1st gear. The driver stops next to us and chats to Doug out the window. Apparently, he might not be able to get past as we're not quite in the passing bay, but he'll give it a try. Secondly, if we're struggling now, we need to drop air pressure, as the track just gets steeper and steeper. I jump out and continued to lower tyre pressures as I had started earlier. Once complete, we switch to 4WD High, and reverse out the passing bay. On some solid ground, the revs are screaming again as we build as much momentum as possible. Spotting a flat bit, i coach Doug through the gear change, and the engine relaxes a bit. Still increasing speed and holding our momentum, we make it all the way up the track and start heading into Lake Wabby. Doug seems to have terrible luck today, encountering far more vehicles heading the other way to us. As we progress though, I hope I see the beginnings of understanding of what my driving was about yesterday, and why the training had given me the confidence to handle it. There wont be an apology, and it wont even be discussed - we're both far too proud for that, but I think the understanding is there and that's enough for me. When we arrive at Lake Wabby, Doug is drained, but seems to have enjoyed it. We pack up some bits and start the walk. Its about 2km from the car park to the lake, and the walk offers a viewing opportunity of the moving sand dune threatening to fill the Lake. We descend the hill, and the rainforest's wildlife come out to say hi. We eventually reach the sand dune, and start the treacherous slippery slide to the lake, its a steep dune and there is no flat spot to put down a towel, but we both head into the water anyway. Large fish swim around us, and then smaller fish come to join. The cool water is a perfect way to relax and de-stress after the drive, and we I experiment with the depth, walking a step at a time and sinking to the bottom with my hands up to see how far up the water comes, when I can no longer sink to the bottom easily I give up, barely 3 meters from the shore. This is the deepest lake on the island, and if we had scuba gear we'd be able to dive the 14m to the bottom. Another hour and a half stop, and we give up on the sunbathing and head for the car. The climb back up to the car park just highlights how fit we need to be in Canada, we've got a long way to go.

We head back down to the beach, its the easiest way to travel a distance rather than cutting through the inland tracks and we know how tough that is. I think Doug is relieved to be back on the comparatively easy beach. It ends all too quickly tho, and soon we're back trying to dig through the deep sand to get back onto the inland tracks. Bogged again, a local shoots past showing how its done, drifting from hard sand in a gentle arc onto the hill to dig the wheels in and climb.  Its too late for us to try, but useful to know. A friendly local pops out from some bushes and gets first and reverse confused, confusing the hell out of us. Ignoring his advise, we eventually get up and through, and once again Doug is plagued with bad luck as he is constantly forced to stop to pass other vehicles. Coming round a corner, still well within the speed limit we draw to a stop in front of a well packed truck. It reverses and pulls over, allowing us to pass, but stops to have a chat - its a Ranger. Useful as a chocolate knife, they tell us the speed limit is 35kph - we were barely doing 30. Giving up, they tell Doug to take it easy on the corners before wheel spinning off. Hypocrites. We push on, and reach the lake. Its well flooded, and the Tea Tree trees growing around the edges of it have stained the water a rusty amber colour. The path is so well flooded we cant get very far, and fallen trees cover the path, obscuring the signs. Still, it's fantastic to see and we head back to the picnic area at the car park to have lunch. In our wisdom, we decided that with all the hot weather, the best lunch to bring was soup. Problem is, we forgot to bring any mugs or receptacles to make this soup in, so resort to using the plentiful supply of sports drink bottles we have littered around the car. It doesn't look too pleasant, and dunking bread in is a bit of a challenge but we manage an clean up after ourselves. Doug's had enough of the driving by now, fed up with the criticism from the rangers, the boggings, the vehicle passing dilemmas - he hands over to me. Back in control of the wallowing vehicle, I'm able to bring the speed up from yesterdays slow crawl, to a sedate plod - now that Doug has experienced it he is far more understanding and less worried. Our luck has changed with the driver, and the only vehicles I encounter are well positioned in naturally large passing points, so we barely loose momentum. The inland tracks go all the way back to the ferry port, and we arrive, 25 minutes before the ferry is due to arrive. It is good to see that others are having as many problems with the flies as us - there is a group of 4 standing around dancing erratically as the flies land and they try to shake them free and we wait, watching the free entertainment this provides. Eventually, the ferry arrives and we board, taking it on forward this time... unless we are using a different ramp at the other end it is going to be very interesting to reverse back out as it is almost as steep as this one. We watch as the ferry is loaded, this time as one of the first few on, we get to see what is happening with everyone else, and it looks like there are 2 lorries getting on as well! They reverse down, the drivers skill tested every inch of the way as they are guided into a spot. Once there, they re-inflate their tyres using compressors under the bonnets. I would not have wanted to meet one of these vehicles coming the other way on the inland roads.

As we dock the other side, there is a flurry of activity, as everyone is tested in reversing skills to back up off the boat, Doug drives for us - I wanted him to experience how sluggish and wallowing the cruiser is on tarmac. With no petrol station in sight, and no compressor under our hood, its a good thing we brought our own - but it takes an age to get the pressure back up. We get the car back and the office is swamped with people returning vehicles. When we arrived here yesterday morning, we had spotted they also did services. It was fantastic that they were able to fit us in at such short notice, and so I have the service to pay before we can leave. Its been given a clean bill of health and cheaper than our last service too!

I wanted to be back on the road much earlier than we managed, but I also needed to get more cash out. My reserves had run dry and I still couldn't use my card much (the payment for the service meant 2 phone calls for the poor guy to find out how to do it). Alas, the bank was just closed, the staff still milling around inside. This meant Doug would have to carry on paying for things! We pushed on, hoping to make it down to Noosa for the night, ready to start the Sunshine Coast in the morning. It was getting dark, and we still hadn't reached Noosa. We were left with a dilemma, there were no campsites along the way (everything shown on the map was missing), we hadn't eaten and still had about an hour to travel. I'd found a place using Google, which allowed late night check in again. We pushed for Noosa, and arrived about 8pm. Driving round and round in circles we couldn't for the life of us see where the caravan park was. Eventually, we pulled into a carpark and walked - finding a staircase down to where the caravan park used to be. A big sign told us the caravan park was no more and trespassers would be prosecuted. Doh. Stumped, we headed for food. There was a place on the corner we could eat. Our challenge was this. The Sunshine Coast is supposed to be fantastic, but we would have to back track to find another campsite/caravan park. We were still covered in Fraser Island sand, and needed showers, the beach near Noosa was an option, but you were supposed to have a permit to sleep there. Alternatively, we could head back inland, finishing our Sunshine Coast drive in darkness and unable to appreciate the beauty out there - and find a rest stop along the highway which allowed overnight camping. Doug was anxious to push on for Sydney, conscious that we didn't have a whole lot of time there already. I wanted to contrast the coasts, I knew and loved the Gold Coast, but hadn't experienced nearly as much of the Sunshine Coast. In the end, I decided we should push on. There was so much to see going down, we'd be pushed to do it all anyway and so the coastal comparison will just have to wait until next time!

I headed back inland. Off towards the major roads and faster tracks, eventually reaching what our map had marked as an overnight camping stop. As we drove in, it looked very quiet. This was explained by the sign tucked out of the way saying strictly no camping. DOH! Of all the times for the map to fail us, when we were tired, it was late, and we needed to stop for the night was not the best of them. We parked, and I declared that I hadn't seen any sign - we'd be gone early enough in the morning anyway. Doug, not quite at the same stage of rebelliousness disagreed, and decided he wouldn't pitch his tent, opting instead to stay in the car. I got out and considered it all. The swag would take 2 minutes to get out, put up and fall asleep in. I was ready to do that. But then Doug would have had no sleep, and he'd be grumpy and less able to take on the driving tomorrow.Reluctantly, I got back into the car. We set off for the next one on the map, hoping against all hope that it would be accurate this time. 50k down the road, we pulled off, and after a few navigational hiccups, eventually reach the marked rest area. Bliss - it was genuinely a rest area. The car park was packed with camper vans and there people milling around listening to music. We pulled over to the side, near a grassy area - it meet with Doug's standards, so we pitched tent and swag and promptly fell asleep - much further south than we would have anticipated and so a good chunk of the journey in. Bring on the final few legs!